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A London exile and card-carrying carnivore finds Bristol’s answer to the “steak ‘n’ cocktails” concept. With so many successful examples in the capital, the world outside the M25 has a high standard to live up to.

The Galvin brothers have an impressive array of restaurants across the UK, from pubs to the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows. To this portfolio they’ve just added a tenth, and their sixth in London.

IGT’s food man spent so long wanting to get into the elusive Kitty Fisher’s that he began to doubt – could it possibly live up to the build-up? Checking in after a Galician bovine battle, he’s turned in the verdict.